The journal
Long reads from coastlines we keep returning to.
More than thirty editorial guides, route diaries and slow travel notes from Nordic, Atlantic, Baltic and Mediterranean shores.
Best Small Coastal Towns in Europe
A slow tour through the small harbor towns most travelers drive past, from windy Atlantic edges to quiet Mediterranean coves.
Rainy Atlantic Escapes
Why traveling to wet, windswept Atlantic destinations in the off season is one of the most underrated forms of slow tourism.
7 Cities That Feel Better Near the Water
Some cities only really make sense when you reach the water. Here are seven where the harbor, river or sea is the actual center of gravity.
Sea Trains and Ferry Weekends
How to build a three day trip out of a single rail leg and one ferry crossing, with notes from a few favorites in Scandinavia and the British Isles.
Quiet Harbor Towns For Autumn
Autumn is the secret season for coastal travel. Smaller crowds, dramatic skies, kitchen smells from every other doorway.
Foggy Nordic Islands Worth Visiting
A short guide to islands in the Nordic seas where fog is not a problem to be solved but the whole point of the trip.
Mediterranean Ports Without Crowds
Old harbor towns on the Mediterranean that have somehow stayed under the radar, with notes on the ones we keep returning to.
Best Ferry Routes In Scandinavia
Six Scandinavian ferry routes that double as the trip itself, from short archipelago hops to overnight crossings between capitals.
Oceanfront Cafes With Incredible Views
A short list of cafes where the view does most of the work, and the coffee is good enough that you stay anyway.
Remote Baltic Towns Most Travelers Miss
The Baltic coast has long stretches of small, lived-in towns where summer is gentle and the off season is almost private.
Lighthouse Destinations Worth a Detour
Lighthouses are the original travel landmark. A short list of the ones that are worth the long drive or the longer walk.
Lakeside Cities In Europe
Inland water counts. A few lake cities in Europe that feel more like coastal towns than their geography suggests.
How to Plan a Slow Coastal Weekend
A practical guide to slow weekend trips, with templates for two and three day itineraries that put atmosphere first.
Hidden Fishing Villages Still Worth Visiting
Small working harbors where fishing is still the actual job, not the theme. These places exist, you just have to be willing to drive past the famous ones.
Ferry Day Trips From Stockholm
Stockholm has one of the most generous archipelagos in Europe. A few day trips that turn the city into a launching pad.
An Atlantic Coast Road Trip You Will Actually Enjoy
Road trips along the Atlantic are easy to ruin by driving too far. Here is how to plan one that respects the coast.
Photographing Nordic Coastlines
Notes from a few years of bad weather photography along the Norwegian, Swedish and Faroese coasts.
Winter Coastal Travel, A Defense
Why winter is one of the most rewarding seasons for coastal travel, if you accept the trade offs.
Coastal Gastronomy in Europe
Where to eat well on the coast, with a bias toward small harbor restaurants and what they do best.
Scenic Train Routes Along the Coast
Trains that hug the coast, with notes on which side of the carriage to book.
Remote Beaches Worth the Walk
Beaches that require effort, and reward you with the kind of quiet that makes the walk feel short.
Harbor Cities For a Long Weekend
Cities with serious harbors that you can do justice to in two and a half days.
Island Rail Connections in Europe
How to combine European rail with island travel, so the ferry feels like an extension of the train.
Overnight Ferry Cabins, A Short Guide
How to actually sleep well on an overnight ferry, and which routes are worth doing as a destination in themselves.
Northern Coastal Walks Worth Planning Around
A short list of multi day coastal walks in northern Europe, with notes on difficulty and where to break each one.
Where to Stay for Stormy Atlantic Nights
Guesthouses, small hotels and stone cottages where the storm outside makes the room better.
Mediterranean in Shoulder Season
How to use late April, May, late September and October to get the Mediterranean back to a human pace.
Weekend Baltic Routes by Train and Ferry
Three Baltic weekend ideas built around overnight ferries and short coastal train rides.
Small Coastal Bookshops Worth a Stop
Bookshops in small coastal towns that justify a detour, and what to read once you get back to the room.
How to Pick the Right Side of a Coastal Train
Short, practical, slightly geeky guide to choosing your seat so the sea is on your side, not the other one.
Sustainable Coastal Travel In Practice
Realistic ways to make coastal travel a little gentler on the places you visit, without turning the trip into a homework assignment.
Winter Storms on the Portuguese Coast
Why winter on the Portuguese Atlantic is one of the most underrated coastal experiences in Europe.
Norwegian Coastal Villages In the Off Season
A loose guide to visiting Lofoten, Vesteralen and the smaller Norwegian coastal villages outside high summer.